Kolkata: The hawker vs hawker fight at New Market reached a new height as two ... 10-20 men and asked me to remove my dala. I refused. At night, one of his aides, Rehan, called and threatened ...

This story appears in the May 2017 issue of National Geographic magazine. A few years ago I was on an assignment in India. I had a day off, so I went to the Mullick Ghat flower market in Kolkata.