Doro wat ($28) and tibs wat ($28) are stars. The former features chicken thighs and the latter lean beef, but the brick red sauce, glossy with nit’ir qibe, or spiced ghee, is the same.

Zagol offers several hearty options including ye doro wat, a spicy chicken stew with a hard boiled egg ($17), zilzil tibs, marinated beef strips sauteed in herbal butter with onions and rosemary ...